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How to wire an RC-51 start/kill switch onto a 600
This tutorial is a step-by-step procedure of how to wire an RC-51 (RVT1000) start/kill switch onto a 600RR.  Although this tutorial is for a 600RR, it can be useful in applying this to other 600's as well (in fact, it wouldn't surprise me if this works for other 600s the exact same way it does for the 600RR).
35013-MCF-670 STARTER SWITCH SET
CLICK HERE for Throttle set and cables

Before we get into the tutorial, let me give a brief explanation of why one would do this...

A popular modification that many racers and trackday riders do is to replace their stock 1/4 turn throttle with a "quick turn" throttle.  This is a throttle requires less turning action to reach wide open throttle.  Examples of this are the HRC 1/5th throttle and the EuroRacing quick turn throttle (allows ~1/5th, ~1/6th, and ~1/7th turns).  One aspect of these throttles is that the throttle housing is separate from the stock start/kill switch.  This is no big deal for the Hondas liter bikes because their start/kill switches are independent of the throttle housing.  But the 600s have a start/kill switch that is incorporated into the throttle housing.  So in doing such a modification, you're going to need a new start/kill switch.  As it turns out, the RC-51 start/kill switch can be modified to fulfill the task.

Are there alternatives to the RC-51 kill switch?  Yes.  HRC does sell a separate start/kill switch.  However, this switch is designed for racing and does not retain the functionality that is needed for street bikes.  So this would only work for you if you are doing this on a track bike.  Hondas liter bikes (e.g. 1000RR, 954, etc) also have a start/kill switch which is separate from the throttle housing.  However, these switches use a different connector from the 600s and will require additional modification.

Okay, so now you know why one would do this, lets move on to the tutorial.

From the RC-51 wiring diagram you can see that the RC-51 start/kill switch is wired in the following manner:

  • Yellow/Red = starter relay
  • Blue/White = headlight low beam
  • Black/Red = headlight relay/fusebox (20A)
  • Black = fusebox (10A starter/ignition)/bank angle sensor/regulator-rectifier
  • Black/White = bank angle sensor relay
  • White/Green = horn switch/fusebox (10A)/turn signal relay/rear brake light switch
  • Green/Yellow = rear brake light switch/rear brake light

So now you need to modify this to work for your bike.  Obviously, you'll need the wiring diagram for your bike to make the analogous comparisons.  On the 600RR, this wiring mapped as follows:
 

RC51 <-> 600RR

Y/R           Y/R

Bu/W        Bu/W

Bl/R          Bl/R

Bl             W/Bl

Bl/W         Bl

W/G         Bl/Y

G/Y          Bl/G

where Y = yellow, R = red, Bu = blue, Bl = black, W = white, and G = green

On the 9P connector, you'll notice that although you have the same functionality, the wires aren't in the exact same position as the 9P connector on the 600.  So you'll have to modify the connector to match your bike.  On the 600RR, its as follows (click pic for higher resolution version):

The diagram is such that you are looking straight down into the open end of the connector.  You'll need a small, thin screwdriver to move the pins within the connector from their current position.  Its a pain but its feasible.

Once the connector is modified as needed, install it back onto the bike.  Here is what it looks like on a 600RR with a quick turn throttle:

[click pic for for larger version

 

Its not a perfect mapping from the RC-51 to the 600RR but its close enough.  Here is the only difference I've found (so far).  If you have the kill switch on and try to start the bike with the stock start/kill switch on the 600RR, the starter does not engage.  Try the same thing with the RC-51 kill switch, the starter will attempt to start the bike but the bike won't start because the ignition has been killed.  So as long as you're mindful of this, this should not pose any problems.
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